tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-41137242195389764742024-03-05T18:20:24.607-08:00Learning to CostumeLearning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.comBlogger49125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-90247951900808845192018-06-20T05:47:00.004-07:002018-06-20T05:47:49.904-07:00Day At The RacesThis past weekend <a href="http://madamemodiste.blogspot.com/">Kat</a> held her annual Victorian party. This year the theme within the theme was Day At The Races. I love having a theme to work with (Victorian being pretty wide open on it's own) and I settled on making an "inspired by" version of this dress from the 1997 Anna Karenina:<br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">I knew I wasn't going to be able to make an exact copy. My skills just aren't there and I needed something a little more practical skirt wise (skirt train culture is extinct; either that or they were always getting stepped on and people just dealt with it). <span style="color: #313131; font-size: 0.9166666865348816rem; word-spacing: 1px;">It was difficult finding photos of the back of this dress. The few I did find weren't at the best angles nor with the best lighting. Those challenges aside I decided to jump in and give it a go. Here's my version:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 12px;">A little large for my new dress form. I haven't added the extra cushioning to it yet.
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I used three patterns for this look with various modifications. The bodice is a lightly modified Truly Victorian
<a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en&q=https://www.trulyvictorian.net/1877-two-tone-bodice.html&source=gmail&ust=1529585020645000&usg=AFQjCNGsoLhluK1aY-itPiSeIXRcmh6iGw" href="https://www.trulyvictorian.net/1877-two-tone-bodice.html" style="color: #1155cc;" target="_blank">1877 Two Tone Bodice</a>. The skirt is a combination of
<a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en&q=https://www.trulyvictorian.net/1878-long-draped-overskir.html&source=gmail&ust=1529585020645000&usg=AFQjCNGLZ0FC0p3r8bvVLi_YkaERkLtKAg" href="https://www.trulyvictorian.net/1878-long-draped-overskir.html" style="color: #1155cc;" target="_blank">1878 Long Draped Overskirt</a> and the
<a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en&q=https://www.trulyvictorian.net/1878-fantail-skir.html&source=gmail&ust=1529585020645000&usg=AFQjCNEU_h_sau9__nNcfwKXQhS98R4fTA" href="https://www.trulyvictorian.net/1878-fantail-skir.html" style="color: #1155cc;" target="_blank">1878 Fantail Skirt</a>. I also made
<a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en&q=https://www.trulyvictorian.net/1879-petticoat-with-detachable-train.html?category_id%3D23&source=gmail&ust=1529585020646000&usg=AFQjCNEIjoms5pNGAKL2li3QfIDKEwY43g" href="https://www.trulyvictorian.net/1879-petticoat-with-detachable-train.html?category_id=23" style="color: #1155cc;" target="_blank">
1879 Petticoat with Detachable Train</a> minus the train (I ran out of time but will be making the train up later).
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">The bodice modifications were simple enough. I changed it to look like a vest front and totally skipped the collar. I couldn't find the black/white lace like on the original but I quite liked how my neckline looked while wearing it. It was a bit of a trial
to add the lace stripes. I had to trim the lace down and mark out on the pieces where they went. And of course a few would move while I was sewing. I have a few I need to go back and line up better (but that will have to wait for another day as I ran out of
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">The skirt itself was a beast to do. I started with a complete version of the fantail skirt as the base. I did not sew up the side seams, but rather keep the front and back pieces separate while I did the other stages of the dress.
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">My first step was to add the kick pleats at the front of the skirt. I made them as high as my knee (my reasoning was I wanted them high enough to fill out from under the triangle layer). They are taller than the pleats that went around the tail in the back
of the skirt. The red dotted line in the photo is where those pleats were attached to front of the base skirt</span><u style="direction: ltr; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; position: static;"></u><u style="direction: ltr; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; position: static;"></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">After that came the triangle layer. I wanted to make sure the triangle were of equal proportions across the front. I wish I could explain my math for this step but... I'll do my best. First I figured cut out a piece of fabric in the same shape as that portion
of the skirt on the base (leaving a few extra inches at the top where I knew I would be sewing it down). I then determined the center front and measured from there to the seam allowance. Using the width of black border, I figured out how wide the base of each
triangle would be, how many I could fit on each side of layer, and that's how I determined how many points there would be. Probably NOT clear at all. I promise my math was not exact. The dotted line in the next photo is where I attached this layer to the base
skirt:</span><u style="direction: ltr; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; position: static;"></u><u style="direction: ltr; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; position: static;"></u></div>
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<u style="direction: ltr; font-size: 12.8px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; position: static;"></u><u style="direction: ltr; font-size: 12.8px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; position: static;"></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">The top portion of the front of the skirt is the long draped overskirt front and side front pieces only and shortened considerably. I shaped out one small triangle in the front and trimmed with a bow. I ended up not doing the cording as seen in the original.
My overskirt was much shorter than the original appears to be (the proportions of my skirt layers clearly different from the original at this point), and I thought it wouldn't look right.
</span><u style="direction: ltr; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; position: static;"></u><u style="direction: ltr; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; position: static;"></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">The back of the skirt was only two layers attached to the base. First attached was a shorted version of the front kick pleats. The ended right where the triangles opened up. I had a bit of trouble attaching them. The back of the skirt is rounded and my pleats
weren't so I ended up putting darts in my pleats at certain locations to make them lay as they should. If anyone has a better trick on how to add straight pleats to a curve please teach me! The red dotted line is where I sewed down the bottom row of pleats.
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Finally I made the top layer of the back of the skirt. It's just another full back of the fantail, trimmed down to the triangles and shortened so it didn't totally cover the pleats at the bottom. The black bow in the back is tacked in place to help the skirt
hold it's place. </span><u style="direction: ltr; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; position: static;"></u><u style="direction: ltr; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; position: static;"></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">Once all the layers front and back were done I sewed up the side seams and added the waistband. The skirt is heavy, but it's full and it was super fun to wear. It definitely need the detachable train that I did not have time to make. I'm really looking forward
to wearing this again!</span><u style="direction: ltr; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; position: static;"></u><u style="direction: ltr; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; position: static;"></u></div>
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"></span><br />Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-26929448900725295842017-12-15T10:26:00.003-08:002017-12-15T10:26:31.640-08:00Totes of ShameWhile giving my sewing room a long overdue and much needed cleaning I rounded up all my unfinished items and put them in totes. The Totes of Same.<br /><br /><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline !important; float: none; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">It's so close to the end of the year it's very unlikely I'm going to be able to do anything about the UFOs I've accumulated. To be fair to me, these projects aren't all from this year. Some have been waiting patiently for a few years to be finished.</span><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
I won't lie to myself and say I'll have them all finished by the end of 2018. I'm not sure what my goal should be. Cut the number of items in the totes by half? No new UFOs can be placed into the totes until another is finished (ha!!!)? Quite a few of these projects are great basics to have. Not the most exciting to sew which is probably why they're in the totes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpJFiYJx1tYXOzlJLclUaYfVi1bI8HCjxUxTZI6nGhFk3irricD5kUG-FBP1kXcJTfnKvc84HAmdE16N4gXXZXdpw7ACetYFRMwLpnFze5W9QMxVUJe6lXlgAaOhvZSu8T39Eh6YAk_-1Y/s1600/24909593_10155401578053650_6708920050793293188_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpJFiYJx1tYXOzlJLclUaYfVi1bI8HCjxUxTZI6nGhFk3irricD5kUG-FBP1kXcJTfnKvc84HAmdE16N4gXXZXdpw7ACetYFRMwLpnFze5W9QMxVUJe6lXlgAaOhvZSu8T39Eh6YAk_-1Y/s400/24909593_10155401578053650_6708920050793293188_n.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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In the Totes of Shame:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Regency pelisse - this I HAD finished in a rush and was unhappy with the trim. I started taking to apart to redo that and left it languishing</li>
<li>Riding habit petticoat that needs the waist taken in</li>
<li>Victorian skirt that needs a hook & eye closure </li>
<li>18th century waistcoat that needs buttonholes</li>
<li>18th century market hat (started at the first Dress U</li>
<li>Flannel Regency shift</li>
<li>18th century riding habit shirt</li>
<li>Late Victorian coat </li>
<li>Late Victorian bustle cage</li>
<li>1920s foxtrot handbag</li>
<li>Victorian seaside dress</li>
<li>18th century cap</li>
</ul>
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<div>
This doesn't even include items wearable but I want to go back and adjust. </div>
Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-91413995702993115212017-11-10T05:58:00.002-08:002017-11-10T05:58:55.430-08:00Russian Court Gown<strong><br /></strong>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO3PBQILl_UezCXbH68ZhfjpuSz9VZ_iZxFdo0DvKxBddz2qK9Tp3Zae_TApHeRkX7WRy-RJv7ioKn6UbFOM26LSpyW_gu_bnojPEois7xvTZjDIrjtjWeDtFPBWBLUtAlhFiYsFR_lYuD/s1600/IMG_5251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO3PBQILl_UezCXbH68ZhfjpuSz9VZ_iZxFdo0DvKxBddz2qK9Tp3Zae_TApHeRkX7WRy-RJv7ioKn6UbFOM26LSpyW_gu_bnojPEois7xvTZjDIrjtjWeDtFPBWBLUtAlhFiYsFR_lYuD/s640/IMG_5251.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There is A LOT of weight to this dress</td></tr>
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<strong>Up first: the patterns</strong><br />
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<a href="https://www.trulyvictorian.net/1879-cuirass-bodice-with-evening-options.html">TV 420 1879 Cuirass Bodice</a> (evening option for back and side back only)<br />
<a href="https://www.trulyvictorian.net/1875-ball-gown-basque.html">TV 416 Ball Gown Basque</a> (front and side front only)<br />
<a href="https://www.trulyvictorian.net/1893-bell-skir.html">TV 292 1893 Bell Skirt</a><br />
Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion Vol. 3 (pattern for the sleeves page 123)<br />
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I went with the Bell Skirt instead of a much larger train because I needed something practical to move around in. I get the irony of combining practical and court gown, but when you're throwing a party you need to be able to handle things. Things like stairs. A lot. <br />
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<br />
As always Truly Victorian patterns are great. Nothing was altered besides combining the front pieces from one pattern to the back pieces of another. It was easy to do (they lined up on their own with no adjustment from me. I will not question this). It might seem odd to mix and match the patterns like this, but it worked to give me the shapes I needed. <br />
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For the sleeves, I scaled it up so that each square in the book was one inch on paper. It just worked out to be about the size I needed (I will also not question this). This was my first time scaling up a pattern from a book. With grid paper it was easier than I expected, but I didn't change anything which helped with that. <br />
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<strong>Next step: fabric</strong> (this was actually easy) <br />
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<br />
Black velvet for most of the gown. <br />
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<br />
Duchess satin in an oyster shade (otherwise known as off white, which describes numerous shades of white. I call it oyster because that was the shade of my wedding dress and this is pretty close to that). <br />
Pre-embroidered net for the silverwork. <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/522726195/silver-embroidered-heavily-beaded-lace?ref=shop_home_active_6">This</a> is the exact fabric I used for my embroidery. Yes, it is expensive. Yes, I know I could have purchased a lot of appliques created a pattern that way. I saw this. I wanted this. In my mind, nothing else would do. It's wide and it has a lot of embroidery to work with within a yardage. It has beads and sequins to really catch candle light. To determine how much I would need, I measured the length of my hem on the velvet portion of my skirt. I wanted a repeating symmetric pattern on my skirt. I needed a lot. My measurement was pretty close. I only had to fudge one portion of the embroidery with a design I put together. I'm chalking that up to the fabric being cut in a spot that didn't work out in my favor. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKs1rhWBJJmsZENHH_5hEqGOk2TWqL0jO5CpGKnci_a6_-_e1UnXcbWIE9vvtTyLb_3XxPO1pUGRrnZweI7TL5kljBPDEGmew9rzCutA7Uz656WW4LuTGE3XXRvrtU9hbBSay5XE9jFGbg/s1600/IMG_5249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKs1rhWBJJmsZENHH_5hEqGOk2TWqL0jO5CpGKnci_a6_-_e1UnXcbWIE9vvtTyLb_3XxPO1pUGRrnZweI7TL5kljBPDEGmew9rzCutA7Uz656WW4LuTGE3XXRvrtU9hbBSay5XE9jFGbg/s400/IMG_5249.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I don't think anyone noticed</td></tr>
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<strong>The long haul: assemble and embroidery</strong><br />
<strong><br /></strong>
Sewing together the outfit was quick. If you've made up a Truly Victorian pattern before the time to do this step of the project will pretty much be the same as the last time you did. What took me forever was the embroidery. <br />
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<br />
Embroidery for the velvet section of the skirt: First I figured out which portion of the pattern on the embroidery I wanted at my hem. I then carefully pinned and trimmed and moved and cursed and moved again until I had it laid out just so. I took a picture incase all the pins fell out. They liked to do that as I wrestled with all the fabric. Then, in sections, I carefully unpinned the embroidery, and used fabric glue to attach it to the velvet. I folded it over a heavy book, applied the glue, and then very very VERY slowly used the book to roll it back on to the fabric. The book acted as a weight while the glue dried. I always had a cup of water and a towel on hand to remove any glue mistakes. You have to get to them quickly before they dry on the velvet and annoy you forever. I would let the glue dry overnight on a section before moving to the next. Something that I hadn't thought about until I started the process is that the glue helped hold down all the threading that attached the beads and sequins. I still lost some, but the vast majority didn't go anywhere once a section was glued in place. <br />
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Embroidery on the satin section of the skirt: Russian court gowns have a ribbon with buttons that runs the full length of the front. I chalked lines on the satin panel where that would sit, and figured out my embroidery design around those lines. I trimmed and pinned. And then stitched it down by hand. This took a lot more patience and even more pins and even more time than I thought it would. I had tried a test with glue and it bleed through. I tried using a paintbrush to put less glue on to prevent that, and it wasn't enough to get it to stick to the fabric. So I stitched.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2RrUr-7yUgM7140cnP2DSCWxxsqDDIGAMVv0-oPFWw-9Dj5fDTd4UgCUyKEF3CAYB4l_mcSYc15m8WkH1EMVuHUMjOLrotqXy7nQyeC3dpvFLD1lPfy7eJgt3Yh6jPOy7xgH1nyfK9Wem/s1600/IMG_5253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2RrUr-7yUgM7140cnP2DSCWxxsqDDIGAMVv0-oPFWw-9Dj5fDTd4UgCUyKEF3CAYB4l_mcSYc15m8WkH1EMVuHUMjOLrotqXy7nQyeC3dpvFLD1lPfy7eJgt3Yh6jPOy7xgH1nyfK9Wem/s320/IMG_5253.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flat back buttons sewn into place. Pinned from behind for the dinner.</td></tr>
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Embroidery on the bodice: the section on my back was glued. The vines everywhere else were stitched down because they were tiny pieces. <br />
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Embroidery on the sleeves: Glued. <br />
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<strong>Important note:</strong> I'm sure a lot of you know that the embroidery comes on a netting that is the same color as the threading. Mine was silver. The fabric it was going on is black and off white. Which means I either would have super visible netting or I needed to cut it away. I cut it away. Using my super tiny Martha Stewart scissors I carefully cut away all the netting so only the embroidery remained. It was a lot of work. Boring, mind numbing work. But it gave me the look I wanted. <br />
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<strong>Ribbon button thing: </strong>I made a long tube out of the satin, flipped it inside out and added buttons! Mine was just shy of an inch in width. <br />
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<br />
<b>Final step: ADD BLING<br /></b><br />
I doubt anyone needs help with this step. There was no holding back when it came to the jewelry for this event. A lot of the "royal orders" can be found in the jewelry section of your craft store. Add some ribbon bows and done (I had help with the ribbons because I am terrible at them). <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFlF0dR3TEmOyOAiVINAMO0fKDt0WQd_sKRPLh0CJukBYSVEfvXlFevcaUSTyb9GdfCmNgFFGGuDvkYRvCjanHQb0WXAg230Bfs3hmQRv2Ww5WmN9feCn485AnzR9Z-OQkrnmGft3RH7f8/s1600/IMG_5258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFlF0dR3TEmOyOAiVINAMO0fKDt0WQd_sKRPLh0CJukBYSVEfvXlFevcaUSTyb9GdfCmNgFFGGuDvkYRvCjanHQb0WXAg230Bfs3hmQRv2Ww5WmN9feCn485AnzR9Z-OQkrnmGft3RH7f8/s320/IMG_5258.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Found at Michael's Crafts</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A modified pendant from Hobby Lobby</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joann's</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of fun fake medals on Aliexpress.<br />You didn't know I was the best fisherman did you?</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There's no such thing as too much bling!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Don't forget your tiara and bracelets</td></tr>
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<br />Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-90503256514094212942017-11-08T08:39:00.002-08:002017-11-08T09:02:43.007-08:00Preface: Russian Court GownA short preface to my official dress post:<br />
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It's very important to note I wasn't going for an exacting reproduction (I consider myself a costumer and not a re-enactor). I wanted a dress that looked good for the event and something I enjoyed wearing. I picked the color scheme based off of what I liked, not what a particular person of a certain station would wear. I purchased supplies based off my budget.<br />
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I do this hobby for my version of fun. Everyone has a different idea of what fun is. No one version is better than the other (in my opinion). But I don't limit myself to another's definition of what fun is. I do not feel the need to create something based off another's standards of what is acceptable for a costume. If I claimed to be a re-enactor then sure, crucify me for my machine sewing, safety pins, and synthetic materials.<br />
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Please don't think you're telling me anything new by informing me of how it was "actually done." I have access to the internet, and books, and can find out these things on my own if I wished to. Often I DO find those things out because they are interesting. However, I work 40 hours a week, have a toddler to keep alive/happy, a house that usually needs cleaning, a husband who also needs to be alive/happy and a mighty need to sleep on occasion.<br />
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I don't expect everyone to share the same priorities in this hobby. I put on themed parties where I hope anyone of any skill level would feel welcome at. Where faux silk taffeta isn't frowned upon, where invisible zippers aren't a mark of dishonor, where we can compliment one another for a job well done even if it's not how we might do it, where EVERY guest leaves feeling like their effort and presence was appreciated at a party I throw. I would much rather machine sew an inside seam if it means finishing a gown in time for an event and saving me stress. <br />
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If that last sentence is unacceptable to your personal standards I promise that it's OK. I think you should do what makes <strong>you</strong> happy in this hobby. Just please understand I am going to do what makes me happy. If <strong>that</strong> is unacceptable to you, or worthy of ridicule, then we are clearly not going to enjoy this hobby together. There's no rule saying we have to, and that's OK too. <br />
<br />Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-63091002656148945332017-11-06T09:00:00.001-08:002017-11-06T09:00:27.073-08:00The Last Tsar DinnerOver the weekend a few friends and I got together to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the fall of the Romanov Dynasty. I have always been in love with Russian court gowns, and this anniversary was just the excuse I needed to make one (not that one really NEEDS an excuse, but with the amount of work it certainly makes one feel like it's more necessary).<br />
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I had so much fun putting this event together! I always do my best to make an event memorable for my guests because I know how much effort they put in to attending. I wish I could put in to words how moved I was to have them there looking as absolutely fabulous as they did.<br />
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I'll just share a few photos now. A post specifically about the dress will be made later when I'm a bit more recovered!<br /><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trying to look regal!</td></tr>
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Husband and I really trying to hold it together after a lot of drinking.</div>
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The group! So fabulous! I love them all so much for humoring me with this theme!!!</div>
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These two made sure I had on all the bling. I tend to mortify them with a usual lack of it. </div>
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<br />Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-67447004021705500952017-10-16T04:08:00.001-07:002017-10-16T04:08:53.321-07:00The Burton Dress: Take 2This past weekend a friend hosted a big bustle birthday party, and I was excited to put my most seasonal of bustle gowns back on. Except when I tried on the bodice and discovered it was a wee bit too small. <br />
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Luckily (several years after making the original) I still had some orange and black striped fabric in stash. It was *just* enough to put a new bodice together as long as the collar and cuffs were a different fabric. I guess never getting around to adding more ruffles on the skirt paid off (although this fabric seems to be a staple Halloween fabric at Joann Fabrics, so I could still add). <br />
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The whole outfit is made from Truly Victorian patterns. The bodice is the 1872 vest basque (TV405), the over skirt is the bustled apron overskirt (TV305) and the underskirt is the 1870 train skirt (TV208). Plus the appropriate undies. <br />
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Redoing the bodice took about 8 hours total, including cutting out and serging the pieces (I know using a serger is not historically accurate, but I never claim to be). I did not bag line the bodice because I like having easy access to the seams in the event I need to take in or let out a bodice. This was the first time I successfully did the cuffs, but discovered they were a bit floppy. If I ever do them again I would use a stiffer fabric as my interfacing. I ended up safety pinning them to the sleeves for this event. <br />
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I know the dress would never pass as an authentic Victorian gown, but I can't help but love wearing it. If I put a bustle on in October, this is the one my heart is drawn to. <br />
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<br />Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-29195175013266047562017-08-31T05:00:00.001-07:002017-08-31T05:07:25.633-07:00An Ode To Pattern MakersNormally my finished outfit posts are about which pattern I used, and how long it took, and what (if anything) gave me issues. This is not a normal post. This is a post, and a project, that made me appreciate the pattern makers of the world all the more.<br />
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I've always preferred having a pattern to drafting. A good pattern is always worth the $20+ I'm usually charged. I have no real sewing training. I've never attended school for it. I was taught how to sew a straight line on a machine. Everything after that has been trial and error, youtube videos and glorious instructions written by those who know there are people like me in the world.<br />
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My latest project really reminded me of all of that.<br />
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I decided to attempt making an "inspired by" outfit based off a dress Miss Fisher wears in Season 1 Episode 1. It's not one of her more famous looks, but there's something about it I just really liked. Plus, it looked ideal for outside in July. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finding any straight on shots of this dress was impossible.<br />
I had to compile photos to see the whole look. </td></tr>
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I knew I wouldn't find a pattern for it. It has a lot of design elements that I wager would drive a pattern maker insane if they tried to do a multi size pattern with directions to please the masses. I thought to myself "I've done some 1920s. I'm confident I've got a good grasp of it. I've got a dress form. I've got muslin." What else did I need? <br />
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Sanity. I needed sanity to step in and say "this dress has way more going on that it first looks. Step away, have a strong drink and talk to more experienced people about this."<br />
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Did I do that? Eventually. I also repeated some of the steps (mostly the strong drink one). I tried draping and drafting on my own. I walk in to my sewing room thinking I had some idea of how a flat piece of paper is transferred to fabric and suddenly made to be worn on a 3D person. I left questioning what dark sorcery had ever possessed the human soul who invented clothing that was more than a rectangle with a hole cut out for a head to pop through.<br />
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Before time became critical, before it became an all night sewing spree right before the event, I stopped. I confessed to the project, my cat, my liquor cabinet, myself and the world that I just did not have a damn clue as to what I was doing. NOT A DAMN CLUE. I was pretty sure I had never touched fabric before this. I had obviously purchased fabric solely for Spud to sit on because after what I had experienced, I certainly wasn't someone who knew how to sew with it. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Xa0xy2uNNfJX3lRVbJunmM2GzG91italxNibjOBrK1Co5-W84cXSsSMzY9smKM8zlfu3ptsmDYcHTxoJrTsUdmS35GPA2vbvRlZkSBtbarT0_E281qC8-kvSfXwvS-QaChGfki8OdAeM/s1600/21192616_10155138211118650_7605011372461435293_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8Xa0xy2uNNfJX3lRVbJunmM2GzG91italxNibjOBrK1Co5-W84cXSsSMzY9smKM8zlfu3ptsmDYcHTxoJrTsUdmS35GPA2vbvRlZkSBtbarT0_E281qC8-kvSfXwvS-QaChGfki8OdAeM/s320/21192616_10155138211118650_7605011372461435293_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div align="center">
The only proper use for fabric.</div>
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I still really wanted to make this dress, but I knew I could not figure it out. Not in the time I had. Maybe not ever on my own. I meekly made it to the internet and asked for help. I knew I needed it. <br />
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Luckily a friend was able to step in and help. Lara of <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/laracorsets">Lara Corsets</a> was kind enough to invite me over to show me a thing or two or a billion. Making the journey to her house, she patiently showed me how to lay the fabric on a dress form, where to snip, how the fabric wants to move, and a lot of the other basics of draping a pattern. We gabbed for a bit, but eventually got down to serious work. Due to time restrictions, we were only able to work together long enough to get the top potion of the dress done. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMSAilBWwdYFrptoAgxl6rhMO52ICWdpWmhdIqYULGz9M359FG1hekKZk31SpghrWvddb0vO6sY2FExlX5UNf0i-dhyphenhyphenlAgXN8jupYTuHjjsMgfsCqHrD4m9noFbQwQv2qx0BKNWprRvuSn/s1600/21192038_10155138211018650_5677533098712911650_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="540" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMSAilBWwdYFrptoAgxl6rhMO52ICWdpWmhdIqYULGz9M359FG1hekKZk31SpghrWvddb0vO6sY2FExlX5UNf0i-dhyphenhyphenlAgXN8jupYTuHjjsMgfsCqHrD4m9noFbQwQv2qx0BKNWprRvuSn/s320/21192038_10155138211018650_5677533098712911650_n.jpg" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They look simple, but left to my own machinations I would not have developed these shapes.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUo2KnERGQWuiKGSOIBEP3iW0VUu1XvC0chSsR2-3v3WYQomdMjFEAZr2VmYzGKRG0NdjZc7bjDolAveI2cxl_r_Ia78OjDgNIFKsXfIlUO_Fr-BEhwUc1Ogjw02eNV9yjNiCNIDgCG1n/s1600/21106766_10155138211048650_2943722161382648101_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="540" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPUo2KnERGQWuiKGSOIBEP3iW0VUu1XvC0chSsR2-3v3WYQomdMjFEAZr2VmYzGKRG0NdjZc7bjDolAveI2cxl_r_Ia78OjDgNIFKsXfIlUO_Fr-BEhwUc1Ogjw02eNV9yjNiCNIDgCG1n/s320/21106766_10155138211048650_2943722161382648101_n.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Figuring out most everything from the waist up took us around 4 hours. 4 HOURS. Minimum wage varies, but it's between $8-10 an hour. Just a portion of the dress and I've already went well beyond my normal price point for a pattern.<br />
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With the top portion figured out I was able to work the rest out on my own. I'm not entirely thrilled with the skirt that I did and I plan to go back and redo it (although I'm not sure how yet). I'm most likely going to find a pattern for a skirt I like and attach it.<br />
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So I say to the pattern makers: THANK YOU. I cannot express how much I appreciate your hard work. I hope my purchasing allows you to stay in business and continue to make my sewing life easy. I love that you give me the basics I need to put together something personalized. I love that you've worked out the bust darts, the waist seams, and the shoulders and everything else that goes into a pattern. I know every body is different, and you've somehow found a way to make a product that any human can take and tweak to make it fit themselves. You are worth that $20+ and more. <br />
<br />Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-26189260805642390522017-04-26T06:11:00.000-07:002017-04-26T06:11:12.859-07:00gathering supplies and organizing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I haven't had much time for sewing lately. We've had several parties at my house, and my sewing room is converted into a dining area whenever the guest list passes 6 adults. Since a few parties were back to back weekends, it seemed useless to pack stuff up to unload it for a day or two and then do it all over again. <br />
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But that doesn't mean I haven't been working on sewing related stuff! <br />
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I've been on the hunt for a sewing desk (I currently use a folding table). I think I will be going with Ikea's <a href="http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S09000500/#/S29000504">Hemnes desk</a> with the add on. It's got lots of spots to put useful things that you need at arms reach when sewing. Plus the space designed for a monitor looks like a great spot to mount an iPad and watch shows while sewing.<br />
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My "to do" list is small this year, but some of the projects make up for it by being complicated. Keeping the lessons I learned with my stash only sewing, I've planned out my projects out far more thoroughly (but I get to buy fabric again, and I have been loving it!). <br />
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The next project to be completed is a Victorian gown for a friend's party. It has a secondary theme of "by the seaside", so I went on the hunt for inspiration. I found this and loved it:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjspn8RfKC1w6oVaXZWLMxKO7LbxqGFH2MGyVtyfhHTvPmuDrQlrD2ttkH-Jt02u7tO4GZfMAU5mvtYGHV4FrjkMrIV0nEsQW5lHi6NTkiyrPYK79KOtFVMcogYlztKtTXVb84p7Ep4ADdd/s1600/seasidedress1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjspn8RfKC1w6oVaXZWLMxKO7LbxqGFH2MGyVtyfhHTvPmuDrQlrD2ttkH-Jt02u7tO4GZfMAU5mvtYGHV4FrjkMrIV0nEsQW5lHi6NTkiyrPYK79KOtFVMcogYlztKtTXVb84p7Ep4ADdd/s400/seasidedress1.jpg" width="288" /></a></div>
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I have to redo my bustle cage for this project (as it's in sad shape after years of abuse). I'm on the fence about the bodice, as it looks a little young to me. I might change the neckline a bit so I don't look like a mid-30s woman trying to wear a teenager's outfit. The neckline issue might all be in my head, but if I'm going to put in hours worth of work, I want to be happy when wearing it. I found my striped fabric, a VERY breathable cotton. I just need to get the solid blue and start working. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg02O4-1-XEkLEuz4L1nEpLb2Vc3XOWocOaWB86kZ_SXX1jMBZOQBuJZj15FgSjGXAVrmhbC_TJ2y7HPvxsm34613lniR3AxSiv4gasb5YxEM8ruKta5oiqJyWTztgrcsbkU9xqmummZ8RW/s1600/fabric.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg02O4-1-XEkLEuz4L1nEpLb2Vc3XOWocOaWB86kZ_SXX1jMBZOQBuJZj15FgSjGXAVrmhbC_TJ2y7HPvxsm34613lniR3AxSiv4gasb5YxEM8ruKta5oiqJyWTztgrcsbkU9xqmummZ8RW/s400/fabric.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breathable cotton is just what 90 degree temps call for.</td></tr>
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After that it'll be time to work on my next 1920s dress. Looking to Miss Fisher, I finally settled on making an inspired by gown from Season 1 Episode 1. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmvERr3IHxWNm4JeNVIK6DmhRmizcbjg2Bk9FZZ2h3RmAaIhJ3OGBXwGKrV4zotpsINph9n-396MacFXNnFyit-6pFKY5HIV7jf858b2_FQpD-hLniMAomAazCdmrOZyH-YlcWQRoDRi3o/s1600/17361875_10154641825348650_4285480010769326329_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmvERr3IHxWNm4JeNVIK6DmhRmizcbjg2Bk9FZZ2h3RmAaIhJ3OGBXwGKrV4zotpsINph9n-396MacFXNnFyit-6pFKY5HIV7jf858b2_FQpD-hLniMAomAazCdmrOZyH-YlcWQRoDRi3o/s400/17361875_10154641825348650_4285480010769326329_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">more YES.</td></tr>
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I used this outfit as my much needed excuse to order the American Duchess <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/edwardian-shoes-boots/edwardian-tango-boots-oxblood">Tango boots</a> and found fabric that is a great color match. I have the base of the hat being shaped for me that I will then color and decorate myself. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJko59F7Q2QMsSUiwQVo9Q3WsNfJD1Me8npu263xAfLRAQG9nePB3ABq9D9H6e1M0S3bDfk95NrDxEulyrB7Drt-35RGVvWUtDLafFsNq9hdPZiYHE0yaNu3FyvtMrLOclEYde2dVrClGm/s1600/IMG_4117.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJko59F7Q2QMsSUiwQVo9Q3WsNfJD1Me8npu263xAfLRAQG9nePB3ABq9D9H6e1M0S3bDfk95NrDxEulyrB7Drt-35RGVvWUtDLafFsNq9hdPZiYHE0yaNu3FyvtMrLOclEYde2dVrClGm/s400/IMG_4117.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finding an exact fabric match to Miss Fisher was probably impossible.<br />
But I'm really happy with what I did get.</td></tr>
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Last of the recent fabric purchases, and I continue my dance with Regency fashion. I felt like I landed on the right approach with my riding habit last year. Hang the delicate whites and innocent looks and go for the colors I know and always wear. I absolutely love my jewelry set from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/inthelongrun?ref=search_shop_redirect">InTheLongRun</a> so I wanted to find something that worked with it. Digging around on etsy, I found a black silk sari with embroidery that had small pops of color. <br />
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The contrast really makes me happy (as does wearing black). I still have to pick a dress design (something that can be both day and evening? Is that possible?). I'd also like to get my hands on a coral tiara of some kind to finish off the jewelry set. <br />
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But what I'd really love to do is get some sewing time in... <br />
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<br />Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-21103533303721598482017-02-23T06:37:00.000-08:002017-02-23T06:39:20.458-08:00Tailor's Guide Riding Habit My first project for 2017 is the Tailor's Guide Riding Habit. It's based off of the Snowshill Manor riding habit (also found in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion). Even though I do own the book, I'm a patterns sort of girl and found it well worth the money to pay someone else to scale up for me. <br />
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I treated myself to red wool from <a href="http://www.militaryheritage.com/wool.htm">Military Heritage</a>. It was a little on the expensive side, but what a dream to work with! The color is fabulous. The wool is deliciously warm. Shipping was fast. When I can afford to, I will be ordering from them again. The black wool accents are leftover pieces from a past project.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkQ9a__VYE7mBHJnynFQU_i2CZi2fuZE3jXBt9Om2-wFnAqU1Y3i1B3H3Bwxweb7c0W_K0tDkSKWPhI7CDt8P7efM2Ui-JH2yshEOIrv72iC8QjyMDiLW1mF-nmS8jvZy1-0qXfTWPNx_M/s1600/16807235_10154857093632900_8216892895957493469_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkQ9a__VYE7mBHJnynFQU_i2CZi2fuZE3jXBt9Om2-wFnAqU1Y3i1B3H3Bwxweb7c0W_K0tDkSKWPhI7CDt8P7efM2Ui-JH2yshEOIrv72iC8QjyMDiLW1mF-nmS8jvZy1-0qXfTWPNx_M/s640/16807235_10154857093632900_8216892895957493469_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We both made up the same pattern! </td></tr>
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SPECIAL NOTES: The pattern is for the jacket only! There were a few minor issues with the pattern that may have thrown me off in the past. (1) The cuff pattern piece calls for 4 of the fabric and 2 of the lining to be cut. It's actually 2 of interfacing, NOT lining. (2) The pattern markings to match up pieces are drawn on the outside of the pattern piece vs. the inside. If you cut the pattern out, you loose those markings unless you draw them onto your piece first. (3) The sleeves are TIGHT. Super tight. I made mine out of a size small, and I'm planning to go back and use the medium. I don't have large arms by any stretch of the imagination. Maybe super tight sleeves are historically accurate but I like more motion than a T Rex has. It's also possible the thickness of my wool contributed to the tightness, but I remain suspicious that the sleeves would have still been tight. <br />
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This pattern comes in sizes small, medium, large, and XL. I took a chance and just made up the size small because my measurements were very close to the highest measurements given for that size. I would suggest a mock up for this pattern if you have the time. <br />
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Despite these few bumps, I would recommend this pattern! It went together very well, and I loved how the pattern pieces had the seam allowances marked on them. The instructions were very clear and I didn't find myself confused over anything in particular. <br />
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TIME: I failed at tracking my time. Grabbing an hour here and there when I could, I manage to get the jacket done within 3 weeks. The petticoat was completed in a single evening. <br />
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PETTICOAT: I made mine using some help from tutorials from <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2011/02/how-to-make-18th-century-petticoat.html">American Duchess</a> and <a href="http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/18c_petticoat.html">Koshka the Cat</a>. To be able to pleat the waistband, I did a strip of cotton at the top. The wool would have added far too much bulk. You can see a bit of the black cotton in the above photo where I am sitting enjoying some wine. I wish I had done that with the lining of the jacket skirt. Live and learn! The petticoat is worn over pocket hoops. I had decided to make my petticoat a little on the short side. It's going to be a winter costume (all that wool would kill in warmer weather), and I anticipated showing off boots and avoiding the slush winter tends to bring. <br />
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<br />Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-88324220963996466052017-01-10T06:13:00.000-08:002017-01-10T06:13:45.763-08:002016 sewing in reviewIt's 2017 already. Time does fly by when you've having fun. And sleep deprived. <br />
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I really had hoped to document my sewing as I went. In the end, it came down to either sewing or talking about it, so I went with actually sewing. <br />
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2016 sewing presented several challenges for me. I decided this year I would sew mostly from stash. I had a lot of changes in my weight post pregnancy to wrestle with. Most difficult was adjusting to the time limitations on my sewing (babies really don't understand the concept of a sewing marathon, nor do they care). <br />
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My very first project for the year was a bustle gown for a seaside themed party. It was made entirely from stash. I was so happy to return to sewing I was perhaps over ambitious. I love <strong>love</strong> <strong>LOVE </strong>my underskirt with all those pleats. The overskirt ended up not looking how I wanted it too, but I didn't have time to redo it (I still have ample supply of that striped fabric, so it's going to get redone eventually). I also took the opportunity to draft a shawl collar for the very first time. <strong>That</strong> was a learning curve. Due to weight loss the bodice no longer fits. <br />
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It's quite big when the dress form is set to my current measurements.</div>
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I used Truly Victorian 201, 362 and modified 403 for the bodice. The overskirt is apparently my cat's favorite place to nap (which I'd love to know how because it's been hanging in the closet...). Overall I was happy with the outfit at the time. I need to bring the waist in on the underskirt, and redo the bodice (to one that fits) and overskirt (to one I like). <br />
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My second project (and the first completely 100% totally finished staying the way it is outfit of the year) was my <a href="http://learningtocostume.blogspot.com/2016/08/miss-fisher-inspired-outfit.html">1920s Miss Fisher inspired outfit</a>. I always love wearing 1920s fashion. It's fun, it's comfortable, and it's very forgiving. I scored a straw cloche hat from Modcloth and plan to decorate it to match the outfit. I really can't wait until the weather changes and I can wear this again. <br />
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Project 3 was definitely out of my comfort zone. It was all from stash and my first step into the 1830s. This project required a lot convincing to do (I am NOT an 1830s fan, or a big sleeves fan) and a ton of searching on my part to find something I would feel comfortable in. 1830s is such a fussy, feminine era, and not my style at all. I went with a riding habit because (1) I always feel safe in black and (2) the men's inspired wear was the least girly look I could find. The bodice is a mish mash of Laughing Moon 114 and Truly Victorian 455. I used the Truly Victorian pattern for the skirt, and corded <a href="http://historicalsewing.com/corded-petticoat-pattern">petticoat pattern</a> from Historical Sewing. I drafted a shawl collar again, doing a little better this time around. </div>
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It rained, so we spent the picnic portion of the event at a butterfly sanctuary. In most photos I am a blur, as I activated my ninja skills to defend myself from the winged menaces. <br />
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Channeling George Sand with my look...</div>
The hat a loan from <a href="http://madamemodiste.blogspot.com/">Madame Modiste</a><br />
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The riding shirt is just a regency chemisette with a stock (total cheat, I know, but after all those buttons and piping I was ready to call it quits). After all that sewing the dress was TOO BIG. I was actually really happy about that, until I realized that the corded stays I made last year are now also too big. I'm not so proud I can't admit I had more fun in 1830s than I thought I would, but I have a feeling that was more to do with the company than the era. I promised my hostess that I would give it all another go if she hosted the event again and that I will remake my riding habit to fit me (and out of wool this time). </div>
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Project 4 was an ultimatum with the Regency era. I have tried and tried again to find "me" in the style, and have come up wanting. Again, it's a very feminine style that just doesn't call to me. Searching and searching, I saw an outfit with a very military inspired look. I thought to myself if this doesn't win me over, nothing will and that will be it for Regency sewing. Not only was I thrilled with the end result (now known as the Velveeta dress) but I actually have photos of me in it!</div>
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I made this hat too, and I stole the plume from my husband. </div>
He'll never know.<br />
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With my hostess <a href="http://theladydetalle.blogspot.com/">The Lady Detalle</a> and <a href="http://madamemodiste.blogspot.com/">Madame Modiste</a>.</div>
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I used Rocking Horse Farm Regency Riding Habit for the jumper, and Laughing Moon 129 View C for the spencer. Both patterns made up quickly and easily. I didn't get the chance to make the riding shirt, so I had to keep my spencer on the whole time. I loved how it looked, so that wasn't really a complaint. </div>
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My last outfit for the year was a winter Victorian bustle, made for a holiday tea with friends. The red wool was stash. I used Truly Victorian 261, 365 and 466. I had wanted to make an outer coat and add more velvet trim for a second event I planned to wear this too, but life decided to throw a major curveball for a friend. Sewing was put on hold and that portion of this outfit will be finished another time (the coat has even been cut out!). </div>
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It might not have been the most productive year in terms of the number of costumes, but I felt like I had some major successes. I tried drafting, I stepped into a new era, I finally made friends with Regency. Pulling mostly from stash, I put more planning into each outfit. I found myself doing more trims and little details that added a lot to the overall looks. </div>
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Now, on to 2017! </div>
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Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-44198200653393187572016-08-13T14:10:00.002-07:002016-08-13T14:10:18.665-07:00Miss Fisher Inspired OutfitMy first 100% completed project of the year is my 1920s outfit inspired by one of Miss Fisher's many amazing ensembles. This amazing ensemble to be exact. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">NOT my version. I wish it was.</td></tr>
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I've drooled over almost every article of clothing Miss Fisher wears (her "muppet" pajamas being the only thing I can think of I don't like) and I paid the outrageous shipping charges to have the catalogs from the costumes exhibits sent from Australia to the US so I could drool some more. GET THOSE COSTUMES ON DISPLAY IN THE STATES ALREADY! <br />
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Ahem... sorry. <br />
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If you love Miss Fisher's clothing the way I do, those catalogs are worth every penny. Marion Boyce provides lots of useful information about the outfits (what they're made out of, lengths of fabrics used, when something came from her stash <strike>that she purchased it 20 years ago so all your hopes and dreams of finding it are crushed</strike>). <br />
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The outfit is made up of two pieces: a pinafore and a blouse. Unfortunately my budget is a little more restrictive than the show's, so I had to go with more cost friendly and locally available fabrics. <br />
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My pinafore was made from linen fabric and is a combination of two patterns mashed together. I came across a lovely vintage 1920s skirt pattern in my size and price bracket on etsy. Not only that, but it looked darn close to the details on Miss Fisher's outfit. To make the top portion of the pinafore, I used <a href="http://www.pastpatterns.com/501.html">Past Patterns Flapper Combination Underwear</a>. <br />
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Not as bad as the famous Victorian line of "assemble in the usual manner" but the instructions were on the light side. They were printed on the pattern pieces instead of a separate sheet and didn't really order the steps in which to do things. So I had to wing it. I doubt it makes a world of a difference for this project because the shapes are basic but it is something to keep in mind when shopping vintage patterns. The combo pattern also only includes the original instructions, however I think most people can work out what to do.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kind of blah, right?</td></tr>
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At least it had this really fun pleating detail on the side. </div>
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In hindsight I wish I had given myself the time to line up the wait of the skirt with the waist of the slip pattern a little better, but it still worked. The pinafore looks kind of sad and silly by itself. I admit at this stage I was worried/disappointed/nervous the project was not working out. <br />
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The blouse is made of a chiffon of questionable content and origin. I found it at Jomar, a discount warehouse than stocks whatever anyone sells to them. The Miss Fisher blouse has a striped print, but what I found looked good enough to me for it to work. The details around the neck, sleeves and waistband are made of the same linen that the pinafore was. The buttons are self covered. The shoulder scarf is attached with a round plastic tortoise buckle. <br />
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To make the blouse, I heavily modified my <a href="http://www.decadesofstyle.com/collections/1920s-sewing-patterns/products/2502-1925-zig-zag-dress">1925 zig zag dress pattern</a> from Decades of Style. I didn't take photos of my process, because I didn't know if it would work or not. I loved how the blouse turned out, and plan to make something up with the same format again. So I'll document it better then. I'll explain as best I can, and hopefully someone will understand me! <br />
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I used the front, back and sleeve pieces only. On separate sheets of paper, I traced out the neckline, shoulders and sides of the front and back pattern pieces, and drew straight lines at the bottom for the new straight waistline design. I made sure the side seams were the same length. Once I had done that it was very easy to create the facing for the linen details. I just drew them out on the same pattern pieces I had just made, and cut them out after I had used the new paper pattern to cut the chiffon. I just shortened the length of the original sleeves to where I liked them. <br />
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Something that I had forgotten to do and did not notice until later was change the armscye on the front pattern piece. The original pattern calls for gathering which I did not want to do for this project. It was an easy enough fix after the fact but it's something to keep in mind if you'd like to make this outfit up using the techniques I did. <br />
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When I did the linen details, I cut two of each piece (one would show on the outside, one on the inside). Right sides together, I sewed all the details pieces together at the side and bottom seams. I ironed down the reaming seam allowances on the top ends. With right sides together, I sewed the details to the chiffon. After that I flipped the linen so that the last remaining unsewn edge was on the inside of the blouse, and could be sewn through the chiffon to the front of the facings. I opted to hand sew because I didn't want visible stitching on the front, and I am HORRIBLE at stitching in the ditch. Ultra super bad at it. <br />
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The shoulder scarf is just one long rectangle. I used a rolled hem on the edges to prevent it from unraveling everywhere. The buckle was loosely stitched in place at the should and the scarf fed through. I might stitch the scarf down or knot it to prevent it moving forward or backward. <br />
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Once the blouse was over the pinafore, I was thrilled! It looked pretty good to me. <br />
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Accessories and other details were assembled. Some worked out, others didn't.<br />
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<li>I had attempted to reshape a straw hat into a cloche, but it ended up looking to much like a 1980s bucket hat. So I made a chiffon scarf and tied it into my hair (my hair is short, and works for the 20s so this was an easy option for me). </li>
<li>I owned white crochet gloves, but to work modern technology (which was needed that day) I had to remove them. </li>
<li>I couldn't wear my stockings; it was in the 90s and I was outside all day. Passing out was NOT desired. </li>
<li>My 1920s inspired shoes were purchased years ago at DSW and I love them. Unfortunately with no stockings, it was blister city on my feet. Oh well, the price one pays for fashion...</li>
<li>I found <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/241093385/tomato-red-drops-modern-red-sea-glass?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=tomato red drops&ref=sr_gallery_1">red teardrop earrings</a> on etsy, which I thought were perfect</li>
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I didn't track my time. Working on this project was sporadic. I grabbed an hour here and there. I did the hand stitching on my lunch breaks at work. However, I did get it all done in less than a month with a young baby in the house. So I'm confident in normal time that's about two weeks of light work. And probably two days of serious sewing time. <br />
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I really look forward to wearing this one again, and making it up in a different color combo! Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-4660609831391767352016-06-30T04:52:00.001-07:002016-06-30T04:52:26.369-07:00return to costuming!Hello costuming world! Long time no contact! I'm afraid I've made very little since my last post (IN AUGUST OF LAST YEAR!) and attended very few events because.....<br /><br />
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BABY!<br />
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My husband and I welcomed our first child in March. I had plans for several costumes while pregnant, but the fates conspired against me. </div>
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Several twists of costuming fate:</div>
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I had made a Regency ball gown from a Nehelenia pattern, but early pregnancy symptoms made it difficult to track my time/opinion of the final outfit. Not to mention making me feel ill while at the event itself. I often forget I even made it. <br /></div>
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I had planned on making the Mockingbird dress worn by Sansa Stark for a Game of Thrones themed event I co-hosted in October. Turns out I did not have enough black silk to correctly fit that gown to my then size. I was able to make one of Daenerys' more flowing gowns from Season 1, but it was a sort of <em>quick and dirty never plan to wear this again</em> sort of dress and I'm not particularly proud of it. </div>
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However, I did manage to make full costumes for two friends (a Sansa and a Littlefinger) and parts of costumes for my husband and one sister (Tywin and another Daenerys).</div>
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If I can get the chance and round up some photos I'll post about the event itself. It was good fun and I'd love to do it again sometime (with a costume I like)<br /></div>
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I made my husband a Regency suit for an outing in Baltimore. At this point I was running low on sewing energy (and energy in general) so I didn't track my time, and I wasn't that happy with the final product. I'm just not sure I like Regency enough to keep making it. I have one more outfit I plan to try and if that doesn't win me over, I'll call it quits on making Regency.</div>
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I did make myself a new wool spencer which turned out fairly nice, but it needs a button<br /></div>
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Finally, my last plan was to make a Victorian maternity dress for two events I was attending. And then I came down with a massive upper respiratory infection that knocked me out for all but 3 days in December. So that was a huge no go. I couldn't attend the one event and the second (which allowed for any era) I ended up wearing my summer 1920s outfit to. It was the only think I had that I could fit in. </div>
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Recently I was able to get a Victorian gown (mostly) done for a friend's annual Victorian party. I say mostly done because it lacks the finishing like buttons and trim, but it was wearable for the event, and is still on my dress form so I remember to finish it up. I did, however, totally fail at keeping track of my time. I will post about the dress soon! <br />
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Because we're still adjusting to life with the bean, we've planned to attend fewer events this year (which means less sewing in general). That doesn't mean there's nothing on my to do list though! </div>
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Some hopefully to be done projects include:</div>
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a new 1920s summer outfit for the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/jazzageonthedelaware/">Jazz Age Lawn Party</a>. Creating a look inspired by Miss Fisher, I've found a vintage 1920s skirt pattern and the right fabric. Now I just have to get to work.<br /></div>
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an early Victorian riding habit and evening dress (not to mention the required undergarments) for an event in early October. A friend suggested I make one skirt and two bodices to help save time. GENIUS! <br /></div>
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a Halloween ensemble for myself and the baby (I asked my husband if he wanted to do a group costume thing. He declined saying he'll wait to embarrass the child when he's older) <br /></div>
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my last ditch attempt at a Regency dress that speaks to me <br /></div>
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a Victorian dress for a Christmas event (the same annual event I missed last year, so I'd love to make something really nice to make up for my missing it) </div>
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Maybe too ambitious? I'm not sure. We'll find out! </div>
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A few other things related to costuming are going on:</div>
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<li>Firstly, GET MY SEWING ROOM IN ORDER! This is an official command from me to me. It had been in order at one time. Then it became the dumping grounds for everything when we cleared out a bedroom to make space for the spawn. I'm not productive in a messy environment, so this has to change. <br /></li>
<li>Secondly, I'm stash only sewing this year. This doesn't include things like notions, or linings. It only includes fashion fabrics. I gave myself two fabric passes, of which I've already used one (1920s inspired fabric). My most recent Victorian dress was made entirely out of stash, and a roll holding 25 yards of black taffeta<strike> I found in a corner of my sewing room</strike> can easily cover those three Victorian gowns I have planned. And probably a few other things. <br /></li>
<li>Finally, learn to use my embroidery machine. I bought a embroidery machine over the winter from a friend for a super steal. And it's been sitting there, giving me the sad puppy eyes, wondering why I've yet to try it out let alone have it make something cool. </li>
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Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-34239861864989716652015-08-18T17:39:00.000-07:002015-08-18T17:39:06.154-07:00Laughing Moon Mercantile: Pattern #115I finally did it! I conquered my absolute fear of making stays and made this pair. Is it the greatest pair of stays ever? No, but for a first timer I think I did myself proud.<br />
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I had decided to make these stays when I realized one of the issues I always have when wearing Regency is that I never feel comfortable in it. Sort of weird considering how very physically comfortable it is (and how easy it is to drive in!). I'm certain my discomfort rises from the fact that I'm far more used to styles where I'm corseted, and I expect that hugged feeling from my underwear. I don't mind wearing a corset at all, and when I wore Regency short stays I felt like I have left the house with no underwear on at all. Quite awkward.<br />
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SO! On to the stays themselves. This set was made using the <a href="http://www.lafnmoon.com/product_p/p115.htm">Laughing Moon Mercantile Pattern 115</a>. I love Laughing Moon patterns. The instructions are always very detailed and if there is something I don't understand, they're always glad to help me via email.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMU-fyZTGhiFf0IzpO2hoeQFBpbsVZWd9qTnkzAWzJvU8cuEsr12iM8fL_zU5Z1AObt5kGyFAU3PKLDTgWcCYWkjjrZ0TiRfvCFetj4gja0w0RxU0w1aPKN4ZJfMavsDlNECg1FDW4FwGK/s1600/11229972_10153169810583650_2702580123031767150_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMU-fyZTGhiFf0IzpO2hoeQFBpbsVZWd9qTnkzAWzJvU8cuEsr12iM8fL_zU5Z1AObt5kGyFAU3PKLDTgWcCYWkjjrZ0TiRfvCFetj4gja0w0RxU0w1aPKN4ZJfMavsDlNECg1FDW4FwGK/s640/11229972_10153169810583650_2702580123031767150_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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(Sorry about my poorly painted door. It leads to the garage and I just haven't retouched it yet)</div>
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SO.MUCH.CORDING.<br /></div>
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TIME: Close to 20 hours. I wanted to be as precise as I could be with the cording, so I spent a decent amount of time making sure my marking were where they belonged. Also, this set of stays has bust and hip gussets, two for the each hip, two for each boob, and then double that with the lining and you have 16 gussets in all. I find gussets annoying and time consuming. I used metal eyelets instead of making my own thread ones because that's the sort of detail I'm always read y to take a short cut on. Not to mention that is perfectly accurate for the later period that these stays can be worn for. </div>
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ALTERATIONS: I made up the corded corset. The pattern had advised that with the cording, there was going to be some shrinkage with my fabric. Following the directions, I added an inch to the areas that they indicated. At the stage when I tried them on for fit, I was able to determine where I should remove the extra I had added and where I should leave it. In retrospect, I should have removed more since my stays almost completely close at the back. From what I've seen this type of stays always has about an inch gap. This is the only alteration I made, and it was on advise of the pattern itself. </div>
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EASE OF INSTRUCTIONS: The instructions for this pattern were very good. There aren't that many (there are few pieces and the bulk of the work is the cording itself), but they were clear. I would suggest this pattern for the intermediate sewer looking to push their boundaries. There are a ton of markings that need to be transferred, if you're uncomfortable with that practice a bit before taking this one on. </div>
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So in the end did I feel better about Regency when I wore my stays? I couldn't tell you because I got sick the night I wore them! Cursed stomach bugs!<br />
<br />Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-43308418559752691052015-07-22T06:02:00.000-07:002015-07-22T06:02:31.795-07:00Embellishments: Constructing Victorian Detail<br />
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<img border="0" height="320" spellcheck="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoUiFjKpSMkhWKI0w3P3jCAllcJk43vqOBP1cWHmDklwED4Cmkls7O_ZGIwjQELjjyzT2s4LPJXncWlT220vWdvUIymCUGthMwc4gFREGi4F0GaVvKg5BPXAZhby1goffTxIGLWUjnRZHp/s320/51kr6l-GiVL__SX378_BO1%252C204%252C203%252C200_.jpg" width="243" /></div>
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The mailman recently delivered this <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1938394046/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=">book</a>, and I LOVE IT. This book was clearly written with the DIY/self taught sewer in mind, and shares a lot of great instructions on how to do period details on Victorian garments. The directions are clear, concise, and come with illustrations that are easy to understand. <br />
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The topics covered are ruching, pleating, piping, ribbon work, cording and braids, and appliqués. Measurements are including with some of the pleating examples if you want to recreate what is shown on the extant dress. <br />
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My current project doesn't require any of these techniques, but I look forward to some downtime to try them out. I highly recommend this book!Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-46347508486693463402015-05-08T15:38:00.000-07:002015-05-09T07:02:35.767-07:001920s Day at the RacesThe other weekend I attended the Point to Point Races at Winterthur in Delaware. OODLES of fun! Everyone was super friendly, the grounds are beautiful, and there was something to entertain you every time you turned around. <br />
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I decided to make a 1920s ensemble for this event for no other reason than I really wanted to use the bonsai bridge fabric from Joann's for something. ANYTHING. I had been stalking this fabric at the store for some time, certain that sooner or later I'd think of a project for it. Then about a year ago I ordered Decades of Style <a href="http://www.decadesofstyle.com/collections/1920s-sewing-patterns/products/2001-1920s-tulip-kimono">1920s Tulip Kimono</a>, the <a href="http://www.decadesofstyle.com/collections/1920s-sewing-patterns/products/2502-1925-zig-zag-dress">1925 Zig Zag dress</a> and the <a href="http://www.decadesofstyle.com/collections/1920s-sewing-patterns/products/1701-1917-foxtrot-bag">Foxtrot bag</a> (which I ended up not making). So fabic I loved + patterns + event = finally doing it. <br />
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Normally I find cloches in every store at every time of the year, but because I was on the hunt for a simple black one, there were none to be had. A quick etsy search lead me to Elsewhenmillinery where I ordered the <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/214468864/sewing-pattern-madeline-1920s-twenties?ref=shop_home_active_1">Madeline</a> cloche pattern. <br />
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I channeled my inner Miss Fisher and was really pleased with the results. It ended up being quite warm that day (cotton and linen for the win!), and I could have gotten away with not wearing the coat. But I loved it so much I wanted to have it on anyway. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikwaGQjB8rq3rO1YEm1PBEr2nS1tAIkazrp4AU9G7tsXnm4kFE04mT2hGZebmpzNzRltT9Ky97h8VzOLzRqXXa2b_ze_HbiqBTmXt8nDL0Axq005PUOUSM7Jr40kFVepyJHUMHvZ5_S4Pj/s1600/20s3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikwaGQjB8rq3rO1YEm1PBEr2nS1tAIkazrp4AU9G7tsXnm4kFE04mT2hGZebmpzNzRltT9Ky97h8VzOLzRqXXa2b_ze_HbiqBTmXt8nDL0Axq005PUOUSM7Jr40kFVepyJHUMHvZ5_S4Pj/s640/20s3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here I am with <a href="http://madamemodiste.blogspot.com/">Madame Modiste</a> </div>
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(who allowed me to call her Aunty Prudence all day) </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh95kNOt9wHzkwr120NAwt1RDMTWmDJAozOcf_LAXBOsDxVuTCEE3s8weBdGm_s-qx2Wo0j7cWuXlmphKJdE4AvygHMx0RxhyC1RJCQ8Cz4tU_q5uF3KeocGrEC82NkENCq6np8t3v1C_fD/s1600/20s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh95kNOt9wHzkwr120NAwt1RDMTWmDJAozOcf_LAXBOsDxVuTCEE3s8weBdGm_s-qx2Wo0j7cWuXlmphKJdE4AvygHMx0RxhyC1RJCQ8Cz4tU_q5uF3KeocGrEC82NkENCq6np8t3v1C_fD/s640/20s.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>
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Parasols were a MUST!</div>
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TIME: My entire project (the coat, dress and hat) took a total of 14 hours. </div>
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1920s Tulip Kimono: When I tell you the coat just fell together I mean it. It's an amazing pattern and I'm looking forward to making another when the right inspiration hits. Seriously, I have nothing but pure love for this coat. </div>
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1925 Zig Zag Dress: Deceptively simple looking. I decided to pipe the gores and the zig zag detail around the waistline. It was tricky going. Attaching the goes to the upper portion of the dress took lots and lots of pining. The pattern calls for the lower portion to be attached to the top by hand. I found that since I did the piping I could machine sew it on using the piping as a cover for the stitches. Otherwise they would have been visible. Had I not done piping I would have sewn it on by hand. Another great pattern by Decades of Style. I really look forward to using more of their stuff. </div>
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Madeline hat: A pleasant surprise! The pattern requires you to add the seam allowance, which normally sends all sort of red flags off for me (I couldn't tell you why!). The pattern also come with 53 steps which at first was terrifying. The instructions are EXTREMELY detailed. I found that the pattern maker included a lot of steps that most leave off. To some it may seem unnecessary, but others might appreciate all the insider hints and tips. I was very happy with how my hat turned out and will gladly buy from this seller again. </div>
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ALTERATIONS: Absolutely none. The Decades of Style patterns are just.frigging.perfect. </div>
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EASE OF INSTRUCTIONS: Instructions for the Decades of Style patterns were wonderful. I didn't come across anything that confused me or didn't make sense. The hat pattern was extremely detailed, but still easy to follow. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9MQ81DT5pq22ZuBCwRuBJGcvOyAGHf9NTrpExxFpboiZeCQ6bsWUEpre1oTU3xCqthaEST9o8k60TWw1rvaDCxy3tVzAtCuKtUnWmV-NgSsACSY7ev1YoPZDMrZIyQ8mRLTtfMar67aaM/s1600/20s2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="382" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9MQ81DT5pq22ZuBCwRuBJGcvOyAGHf9NTrpExxFpboiZeCQ6bsWUEpre1oTU3xCqthaEST9o8k60TWw1rvaDCxy3tVzAtCuKtUnWmV-NgSsACSY7ev1YoPZDMrZIyQ8mRLTtfMar67aaM/s400/20s2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Strolling about was so easy in 20s wear.</div>
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Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-26821495241223148882015-03-05T07:13:00.000-08:002015-03-05T07:13:25.080-08:00Nehelenia Patterns: 1790s Redingote PatternThis outfit was made using <a href="http://www.amazon.com/1790s-Redingote-Pattern-Size-Waist/dp/B007TV1OSA/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1424707317&sr=1-2">Nehelenia Patterns 1790s Redingote pattern</a>, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Bum-Roll-Rump-Pads-Pattern/dp/B002CZI0OY/ref=sr_1_28?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1424708404&sr=1-28">Wingeo #126</a> for hip and butt additions and a modified cloak pattern (I only had enough excess fabric after making the redingote to sort of cobble together a cloak; so I don't feel comfortable enough to review the cloak pattern itself).<br />
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A few friends and I got together for a spa weekend at Colonial Williamsburg and I needed something warm to wear to a Saturday night dinner at a tavern in town. I didn't own any winter 18th century outfits prior to making this, and I get cold. Easily. And given the sort of winter we've been having I wanted to be prepared for the cold. Many people recommended just wearing a wool cloak over a pre existing outfit but I didn't think that would be sufficient for me. I cannot stress this enough: I get really really REALLY cold. So if you reel in horror at the weight of the fabric I used to line my redingote just know: I get really really REALLY cold. The weight of my fabric might be all wrong for the style/era but <a href="http://www.quickmeme.com/img/d4/d421eb89c752cd0b5bee086983cdcf99efd7e01dc785cf0fe3e3951c7a88d440.jpg">I apologize for nothing</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj961Dmxgi7eIUgAEMm3qBYyDCm3XsNMh8YWG2N-5lbP3bIVmestmbUg21SkIg8icgm4PswZMYjJiu4Rxk4nTRWNL1-EV6HtAjv3O7KqcayJK8hqw5YCSyPP6Y32Zjx3du5mLOhIcF1d3HI/s1600/wearing+it.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj961Dmxgi7eIUgAEMm3qBYyDCm3XsNMh8YWG2N-5lbP3bIVmestmbUg21SkIg8icgm4PswZMYjJiu4Rxk4nTRWNL1-EV6HtAjv3O7KqcayJK8hqw5YCSyPP6Y32Zjx3du5mLOhIcF1d3HI/s1600/wearing+it.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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My good friend <a href="http://madamemodiste.blogspot.com/2015/03/royal-orders-and-badges.html">Kat</a> was kind enough to lend me her hat.</div>
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It later tried to eat me. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUx-oL2xz4cWMj5qTyW__6hahGqNZJL_3qVr_UVbQQVLDHVw2wktcCJpu8Vll_1R7AhxxrSIQhz9hx1wtwswdVk6sqcs0RGB1f2UUkDybcq-he7CbhP91KOVPhUGDzS-DTIQIdpzlD0tKD/s1600/photo+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUx-oL2xz4cWMj5qTyW__6hahGqNZJL_3qVr_UVbQQVLDHVw2wktcCJpu8Vll_1R7AhxxrSIQhz9hx1wtwswdVk6sqcs0RGB1f2UUkDybcq-he7CbhP91KOVPhUGDzS-DTIQIdpzlD0tKD/s1600/photo+(2).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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TIME: 15 hours. On the whole, this took me a lot less time than I had expected it too. I think a major part of this is I now have a dedicated workspace for sewing. I don't have to put one thing away to work on something else. Nor do I have to pack everything up when the time comes to have dinner (it was that, or eat dinner on a sewing project at the apartment. Never seemed worth the risk). And with years and consistent projects I am getting just a wee bit faster at this. <br />
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Things that added time to this project were having to go back and trim down the seams on the lining wool (to eliminate the huge bumps and bulges it caused in certain areas) and making my own fringe (I made fringe!). I really liked the idea of having some black fringe detail, and what I saw in the store just didn't look right. The wool has a wooly(?) look to it, and premade stuff just looked too crisp and modern to me for this project. It was very easy to make the fringe, and if anyone needs I can explain it. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje-XA1fXkyi3cCgT7JtLtnEecv9UpxxyCI5OeyjAkpohpTMDrtRGbHhoz44T2SqBAMSyaJnJdKyw7Y1-0Oi4HRPbqeWeq_NgD0uRvGSd9PNfBrRtTuO491tGtCSkLmyHoVQOuSG-BV5Q2J/s1600/wool+thickness.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje-XA1fXkyi3cCgT7JtLtnEecv9UpxxyCI5OeyjAkpohpTMDrtRGbHhoz44T2SqBAMSyaJnJdKyw7Y1-0Oi4HRPbqeWeq_NgD0uRvGSd9PNfBrRtTuO491tGtCSkLmyHoVQOuSG-BV5Q2J/s1600/wool+thickness.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Here's the thickness of the wool I used as fashion fabric and the wool I used to line the bodice. The fashion fabric is "suiting" wool and the lining "coating" wool. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoV4Smo-vC5z3aNi2fuVVTlVV00z0gxQNHlF4ggQl_wLYDvawhssLfJRmSoPOym7hqJszKmvSQhheUTfn-Zm54PVDL343qX9sR-72bUzsggD8veqRyHEV1VqAY94GXlbCyzsKNnxuMoP1h/s1600/photo+(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoV4Smo-vC5z3aNi2fuVVTlVV00z0gxQNHlF4ggQl_wLYDvawhssLfJRmSoPOym7hqJszKmvSQhheUTfn-Zm54PVDL343qX9sR-72bUzsggD8veqRyHEV1VqAY94GXlbCyzsKNnxuMoP1h/s1600/photo+(1).JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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The coating wool made huge lumps near the seams. </div>
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I have to go back and make my petticoat smaller. I did a major screw up when calculating my pleats for the petticoat, and it was far too big on me. I had to safety pin it to my stays to keep it frolm falling off. OPPS!<br />
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ALTERATIONS: The sleeves were very tight, so I had to add to the side of them to accommodate the thicker fabric I was using. Something that I did not realize when beginning is the pattern does not start out to be a double breasted coat. I was fine with a single row of buttons, but it's something to keep in mind when making it. The illustration on the pattern shows it as double, so I either made it up wrong and it somehow worked or they assume you know how to do this, or I missed instructions on how to. <br />
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EASE OF INSTRUCTIONS: I would not suggest this pattern for a beginner. It would have overwhelmed me. Some things were not marked on the pattern pieces itself, and there are no illustrations with the pattern. I always prefer some drawings in the event that I just cannot figure out what the pattern is telling me to do. <br />
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I have to say that even though I had to add to the sleeves so they fit, those puppies went in INSANELY well. It took only one try with each sleeve (both with the lining and fashion fabric). I'll usually get one right and it takes ten thousand attempts on the other. But these sleeves are golden, which is even more amazing when you realize they aren't gathered at all (gathered sleeves always being the easier type of sleeve for me to handle). <br />
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WINGEO #216 - The three support items that make up this pattern are both fast and easy. I have made all three, and with machine sewing they all go together in less than an hour each. The Nehelenia Pattern called for "hip pads also known as a bum roll". Since the pattern shows a bum roll, hip pads and a rump all as separate items, I made up all three. The bum roll did not work at all. It added volume in the front where the bodice and petticoat need to lay flat. I think that piece would work better for a chemise a la reine. The false rump didn't give me enough voulme on the side. By process of elimination I went with the hip pads. Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-78057299912148236902014-12-03T08:13:00.000-08:002014-12-03T08:18:20.759-08:00Simplicity 2589 Yet another project made from out of print patterns. These just very recently went out of print, and you can still snag them for about $5 each. I *highly* encourage anyone that even thinks they might one day remotely consider making this dress to get them.<br />
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I'll start with the outer layer of the costume (it's part I like best). It was a fun gown to wear, and I can see the allure of making more after spending a day in one. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChJ6TmKixEWqpK8cFOih90F321SLlq9RJL48aJVHnbwFyIKPP4jAXxtZVQXOpUj2TvsNq1_341wglg3clnl7XdQBzC1e4ZedZQh5Ci1EVbYP6Pd04iuIF7Jia8dCPQCKBEqaFJ79-Y2vw/s1600/anne.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjChJ6TmKixEWqpK8cFOih90F321SLlq9RJL48aJVHnbwFyIKPP4jAXxtZVQXOpUj2TvsNq1_341wglg3clnl7XdQBzC1e4ZedZQh5Ci1EVbYP6Pd04iuIF7Jia8dCPQCKBEqaFJ79-Y2vw/s1600/anne.jpg" height="640" spellcheck="true" width="361" /></a></div>
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TIME: Roughly 35 hours for all outer layer items. My arch nemesis, hand sewing, was required for certain parts of this costume. The hems and fore sleeves required the most hand sewing, and it was necessary for all that cartridge pleating on the green portion of the dress. I hand sewed the hems because machine stitching would have been EXTREMELY visible on this fabric, and while I am not a purist by any means, I was trying to obtain a certain level of correct with my appearance. <br />
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This time also includes the hundreds of pearls, "jewels" and gold trim detail attached to to the dress and French hood. Those things were also hand sewn down. In retrospect I should have done the pearls before I added the felt backing to the forepart, but I wanted to make sure I had something finished I could wear vs. an embellished portion of a costume with nothing else attached to it. There is a small but growing benefit of the mass amounts of hand sewing I've been doing: getting better and ever so slightly faster. <br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Look at those tidy, tiny stitches! <br />GLORY IN THEM.</span></div>
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ALTERATIONS: I did make a few. </div>
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The forepart directions called for a ribbon waistband. It just didn't seem like a substantial enough way to secure so much fabric to me. So I made the skirt with a normal waist band. <br />
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I had to change the shoulder straps to this gown. If I had followed the pattern markings, the gown would have slipped off my shoulders. Seriously. I had to remove about two inches off the straps to get the gown to sit where it wouldn't fall off. I'm not the most busty of ladies, so I'm sure that had something to do with it. Also, since this is a pattern made for a large commercial company, I'm sure they go by the "easier to take in than let out" motto. This changed how the sleeves were attached. I have to gather the fabric to get them to fit the opening. I have no idea if gathered sleeves are period correct or not, but I am not skilled enough to fool around with pattern scaling. <br />
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After some advice and research, I change the placement of the veil on the hood. The pattern called for it to be attached at the bottom part of the hood. It didn't seem right. It would have looked deflated. So it was moved to the top of the hood and flowed much better. <br />
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I did not use the gingham for the cartridge pleating. I marked my fabric with a chalk pencil and made the pleats that way. I didn't have any gingham on hand and I didn't feel like buying any. </div>
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The length of this dress had to be shortened. I'm 5'3" and I would have been tripping all over. </div>
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EASE OF INSTRUCTIONS: Very good instructions are included in this pattern. I had a bit of trouble with the steps involving how to turn under the fabric to create the pleating in the front. I'm not sure if how I did it was actually what I was supposed to do, or it just worked out for me. <br />
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FUN FACT: it is entirely possible to ride an elephant while wearing this dress.<br />
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My "sewing room" is in a fair state of chaos right now, but I'm hoping that once trim is down and the closet installed, I can unpack this costume and share more detailed photos of it. Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-31555860071082014182014-10-17T08:38:00.002-07:002014-10-17T08:38:28.202-07:00a sewing room of my very ownIn very exciting news, my husband and I recently purchased our very first home (yay!). We had outgrown our one bedroom apartment a while ago, and had started the official house hunt last spring. <br />
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The house needed to have space enough to accommodate both of our hobbies. My husband is actually a professional model maker, and that has spilled over into his home life of building hundreds of little things that for some reason need lots of big things to make them. Which is sort of funny because I make life sized things, and the machines to do that are quite small. <br />
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We made an agreement that he would take over the basement as his work space of any house we did buy, and lucky for him (and me) the basement of our new home is the full length and width of the house. So he has plenty of room. <br />
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Which means I get to have an ENTIRE ROOM just for me! Very very very excited about this! My old craft area was a corner and a dining room table. The prior owners of our home had enclosed the carport between the main house and the garage and used it as a dining room. Since the kitchen is an eat in, and there's only the two of us, we don't need to dedicate that much space to food. <br /><br />The room is a little narrow (11 feet across) but very deep. <br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">What? A window for natural light?</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjneLFrk_21WQVU1MdPdY7AD6CclXZJDMeWj88UDueviR8BXnDedwNuMs96c69GhmTIhS-iw4M2pBSgZx24DXgRH8G_qXiCAiLBDk3FNBPQZT0q50pEevG1f8U7Yg9zmeyaeWMtbDUiR9_Z/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjneLFrk_21WQVU1MdPdY7AD6CclXZJDMeWj88UDueviR8BXnDedwNuMs96c69GhmTIhS-iw4M2pBSgZx24DXgRH8G_qXiCAiLBDk3FNBPQZT0q50pEevG1f8U7Yg9zmeyaeWMtbDUiR9_Z/s1600/2.jpg" height="240" spellcheck="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Enjoying that they just put up some plywood over</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"> the old window and painted it.</span> </div>
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Of course, since it's just an old carport there's no closet to speak of, and the walls are brick. I think that's kind of fun, giving it a warehouse/industrial feel to it. The carpets are gross (they don't look that bad in photos, but they are). The plan is to put down some faux wood flooring. I had thought about finishing the walls, but I think I'll loose too much space. The back wall in the second photo has an outlet about every foot or so; I'm thinking a L shaped desk for the sewing machine and serger. </div>
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Along a side wall I think something like this Stolmen system from Ikea would be great for costumes. </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Plus an additional full length bar for more dresses.</span> </div>
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I admit I am slightly hesitant about the everything exposed to everyone look, but some curtains would easily solve that problem. Storage would be needed for stuff like books, hats, and patterns. Again Ikea would come to the rescue with those cube shelves they sell. </div>
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The husband has promised to put together a cutting table for me (more Ikea shelves with a butchers block secured on top). I usually like dark wood and colors, but for sewing/crafting, I really think white and light is the way to go. <br /><br />Odds are my space will look like a show room until the first project. Then it'll look like a nightmare. But a roomy, all mine nightmare. That I don't have to put away or clean up to eat dinner. </div>
Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-18285228810731974202014-10-17T07:50:00.001-07:002014-10-17T07:50:17.471-07:00shoe time!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaolgNzWcc-LkSG_6xEfZ8tA49HOybAkl6AouQD10kUkA-QCwZoUrY-CtfeR5RDMSy9yRMpBt3cn46Pdfpdt-btITt-jROUHTqBgxgSFIhYwJNp3raEMiDfPy9yVwRs3Th7uKSSub4ff-9/s1600/virginia-renaissance-shoes-web-banner2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaolgNzWcc-LkSG_6xEfZ8tA49HOybAkl6AouQD10kUkA-QCwZoUrY-CtfeR5RDMSy9yRMpBt3cn46Pdfpdt-btITt-jROUHTqBgxgSFIhYwJNp3raEMiDfPy9yVwRs3Th7uKSSub4ff-9/s1600/virginia-renaissance-shoes-web-banner2.jpg" height="170" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/">American Duchess</a> is having another shoe give away! Check it out for your chance to win!<br />Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-46339048855450310492014-10-16T07:51:00.000-07:002014-10-16T07:51:02.763-07:00Done<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSlpxrrs4c7aBj5Vk-hr0zRyLl3FTgfipWoY9yw-rJoSCbypinILvLthbb5aIqhvdYiYLC6WuU67zOntJdn0RAzcs9qJQ3ys6qJyCrBzAoPs7oZgRdVF1p6iOggbBM9HE-9j2-_QXbSAXa/s1600/anne.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSlpxrrs4c7aBj5Vk-hr0zRyLl3FTgfipWoY9yw-rJoSCbypinILvLthbb5aIqhvdYiYLC6WuU67zOntJdn0RAzcs9qJQ3ys6qJyCrBzAoPs7oZgRdVF1p6iOggbBM9HE-9j2-_QXbSAXa/s1600/anne.jpg" height="640" spellcheck="true" width="361" /></a><br /><br />The gown was completely finished and on time! Horray! </div>
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It was a great day at the fair (our original planned day had been rained out). I was very pleased with how the dress turned out, and will do a write up about the construction later. I thought I would finally share a photo of myself wearing something. </div>
<br />Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-70659835214617379122014-10-08T09:35:00.000-07:002014-10-08T09:35:59.027-07:00Anne Boleyn Dress: COSTAbout four months ago six friends and I all decided to get together and go to the Pennsylvania Renaissance Faire as the six wives of Henry VIII. I nabbed Anne Boleyn as fast as I could.<br />
This was a VERY big project for me. I have never done anything Tudor before. I researched what I could about Anne's style (her favorite color was green, her favorite gem were pearls, her style was "simple"). Unfortunately there don't seem to be any contemporary portraits of her.<br /><br />I followed my usual style of using a commercial pattern. I'm just not at drafting skill yet. I used <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-1547-costumes.aspx">Simplicity 2589</a> and the companion <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-1576-costumes.aspx">undergarment pattern</a> for everything except stays. For the stays I used the <a href="http://www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/">Elizabethan corset generator</a>. The Simplicity patterns are out of print, but still available for purchase on their site, as well as all over ebay and etsy. <br />
<br />Let me say now that this is probably the MOST expensive outfit I have yet made. I couldn't give the exact cost, but I will break it down as best I can. Amounts are approximate:<br />$80 - 9 yards of green velvet (purchased on super sale at Joann's, this color is no longer available there. I know I used the rare an elusive 60% off coupon for this purchase)<br />$5 - felt<br />
$40 - gold and black silk for the forepart and foresleeves. (I ordered too much and have a bunch of left over) <br />$20 - faux pearls. I started pearling with a necklace I had purchased years ago that fell apart and I never restrung. Once I ran out I purchased 99 cent strands from Micheal's crafts in similar size and color. <br />$20 - bracelets taken apart for the black "jewels" on the neckline and foresleeves <br />$40 - cotton for the farthingale, inner sleeves, shift, bum roll<br />$15 - faux fur<br /><br />This does not include some supplies I already had on hand. I have a never ending roll of twill tape I purchased from Jomars. I used it for bone casing. I think I paid $3 for the whole roll, and easily have another 500 yards on the roll after this project. I had fill for the bum roll (left over from the 1857 day dress bum pad). Hoop steel and connectors left over from my civil war ventures, as well as zip ties from 18th century projects Thread and notions also were on hand. The patterns had been purchased while they were still in print for $1 each. <br /><br />All this put this project at about the $220 mark. If I had to pick up the supplies I didn't have on hand it would have probably cost about $250. Some of the cost does come down to my fabric choices. There are cheaper (and less annoying) fabrics than velvet and silk. I didn't need to embellish the dress. Nor did I need faux fur on the turn backs. I also didn't "need" to make this dress, so it's all relative!<br /><br />More to come at a later time, hopefully with pictures!Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-87806989349363035472014-08-05T06:22:00.001-07:002014-08-05T06:22:33.819-07:00wonky pattern matching is wonkyI've tried to pattern match this fabric on the back and side backs, and it continues to foil me. This is my best attempt thus far, and I'm still fairly displeased with it. I have, however, run out of fabric for these excessive attempts. So I have to accept this as is. <br />
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The right side back and back match fairly well. My mess ups are far more obvious on the left side back. I'm hoping a lot of moving about will prevent anyone noticing it in person. I thought it would be easier to match since the pattern is not anywhere near as busy as others I have done in the past. HA! Oh well. At least my skirt panels match up!</div>
Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-83711527651269370812014-07-28T09:06:00.000-07:002014-07-28T09:06:27.582-07:00the Anne Boleyn Project<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I've been told lots of people like to have two projects going at one time. This way if they get bored of one or need a break, they can pull the other out and make progress there. It might explain why some costumers seem to bust out a new outfit every other day (or they're just super fast, maybe both).... I'm currently giving this method a try. The Regency day dress was a bit of a surprise, otherwise I wouldn't be juggling these two projects together.</div>
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A month or two ago a group of friends and I decided it would be fun to go to our local Ren Faire dressed as the 6 Wives of Henry VIII. As fate would have it, the faire is changing from Elizabeth to young Henry and Katherine this year (but that's just a weird coincidence). <br /><br />I jumped at the chance to dress as Anne Boleyn. My interest in her began the first time I saw Anne of the Thousand Days staring Genevieve Bujold. Since then I've seen and read so many different portrayals of her. She's always been an iconic figure (good and/or bad) and I am so excited to be doing this.</div>
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There only seems to be one period portrait of her (which really is a late Elizabethan portrait). It's been said her favorite color was green and her favorite jewels were pearls. Her "B" necklace is another trademark I cannot leave out. Unfortunately I have blue eyes and pale skin (Anne was described as having black eyes and a darker complexion), but there's not much I can or will do about that (not tanning, thank you). </div>
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I'm going to be using Simplicity 2589 and 2621 for this project. My fabric choices are probably a little on the conservative side (but I'd rather make something a little more plan but correct then something all crazy and wrong). I'm using "hunter green" cotton velvet for the majority of the gown (which apparently Joann's no longer sells, glad I picked it up when I did). The forepart of the skirt and the foresleeves with be the black and gold silk damask (purchased at <a href="http://fabricguru.com/">fabricguru.com</a>). The folded back portion of the sleeves is going to be black faux fur. I found the "B" necklace on <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N2IFLO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1">Amazon</a> for $20 (with free shipping) which looks suspiciously like several "handmade" necklaces on <a href="http://etsy.com/">Etsy</a> selling for a little bit more. </div>
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If time and patience allows me, I plan to fancy up the foresleeves and forepart with pearls stitched on here and there (the most important thing is to make sure I have something to wear before obsessing over small details). </div>
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I have started a little bit of sewing for this. It worked out I was able to make the chemise for a <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly-2014/">Historical Sew Fortnightly</a> challenge (the challenge was "Under $10"). It's made of black and white striped cotton (I picked up 20 yards for $20 at an opera sale), and the pattern I picked up for $1. I know the cotton isn't historically accurate, but no one is going to see it and I had to cut some budget corners somewhere (velvet is not cheap). </div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;">It has a very, very wide neckline.</span></div>
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I've also finished the bum roll using scrap fabric and have started on the farthingale. I will not be using Simplicity's stay pattern. I already know I'm a bit short waisted, and a friend who had made it in the past found it very long. I tried her set on and it was digging into my sides. Also, the boning did not extend into the tabs at the bottom of the stays. Usually they do, which I believe is designed help take the weight of the clothing off of the waist and keep things from slipping down. I can't say all this with 100% authority, but it's my working assumption. So instead I will be using the <a href="http://www.elizabethancostume.net/custompat/">Custom Corset Pattern Generator</a>. <br />
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Fingers crossed I don't somehow sew the Regency bodice to the Tudor skirt....Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-11124056764851776342014-07-24T09:10:00.000-07:002014-08-06T17:39:39.830-07:00Regency day dress: beginning stagesYet another Regency event has popped up, and I must sew! A friend is putting together a Regency Tea event. My only two current options are a wool day dress (sort of bad for August) or my sari evening gown (not so "tea" looking). <br />
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For prior events I have borrowed a dress from a friend, but I really feel like I'm taking advantage of that benefit. Once or twice, not a problem. Over 5 times? Probably starting to get a little annoying. And she's also going to this tea and *might* want to wear her own costumes. Weird, right?<br />
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I've already picked up my accessories, which I purchased from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/inthelongrun?section_id=all">In the Long Run</a>. I've ordered from her before, and have nothing but great things to say about her work. It's all very well made, looks perfect for the era, and arrives super quick. <br />
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I nabbed this festoon necklace, matching earrings and my same friend gave me the a matching bracelet (maybe a hint to start my own dress to go with it?)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZYvP8MqyqKqrm665zWk3DOzxMVZ8O7asZAEH-pjyYZZLD_IzA6QJGjXmoYGWoP9Qs-z75FjwjDRIrwnsv_Np3qFa-1qKjX6lyAKIK7xKoyWOy8QB1XoXFbMsjWfEp8ETRAAc7xu8bgOrs/s1600/il_570xN_597648772_bplt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZYvP8MqyqKqrm665zWk3DOzxMVZ8O7asZAEH-pjyYZZLD_IzA6QJGjXmoYGWoP9Qs-z75FjwjDRIrwnsv_Np3qFa-1qKjX6lyAKIK7xKoyWOy8QB1XoXFbMsjWfEp8ETRAAc7xu8bgOrs/s1600/il_570xN_597648772_bplt.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Since I have this jewelry sitting around waiting to be worn, I thought now was as good a time as any to find some fabric to match it. I'm under the impression that white was very popular during Regency. If not white, then pastels. Soft, delicate, girly-girl colors and prints and everything that is so not me. I'm certainly not the most knowledgeable of Regency fashions, so please don't take my opinion as fact. <br />
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My assumption of white standing, I'm sure there was a color rebel or two during the time, and I want to channel them. But I also don't want my dress to look, well.... like a gag dress in Austenland. There's got to be a balance. <br />
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I found some fabric at a Joann's in the red tag section. I wasn't sure of it (in terms of Regency wear). I know it would be great for some 18th century looks, have seen it used for such, so I knew they had access to making fabric that looked like it. Is it the equivalent of someone today walking around in 1980's neon? Maybe, but someone could have done it and thought "damn I look stylin'" or whatever the slang Regency ladies used when they thought they looked good. <br />
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I can't say for certain why this is different from other floral prints that I would normally turn my nose up at. While it is feminine, something about it seems sturdy. Does anyone else apply such odd adjectives to fabric designs? Maybe not sturdy, maybe practical is better.<br />
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"> I was hidden under some outdoor fabric until I could be purchased!</span></div>
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So I jumped online and started asking anyone I knew about this fabric. Then lo', I was sent this image as support for the fabric:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8-Ictsjc4fgxJzazG0_u8WtuDJzrxuakIYpmla_8BsDW3xrPpYEXK4CTkcafwaHJMyRhImvyL0F0t5T81WydXgOsL0C70_4FqovjKe7dBlMpr6hINUZtE7-gsJLp97rPkVCkA3LiGvM73/s1600/10491120_796195707078267_6184778117077063003_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8-Ictsjc4fgxJzazG0_u8WtuDJzrxuakIYpmla_8BsDW3xrPpYEXK4CTkcafwaHJMyRhImvyL0F0t5T81WydXgOsL0C70_4FqovjKe7dBlMpr6hINUZtE7-gsJLp97rPkVCkA3LiGvM73/s1600/10491120_796195707078267_6184778117077063003_n.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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I know it's not EXACTLY the same (the original dress being embroidered) but I think it's close enough. Luckily after finding the fabric, hiding it, having to wait a few days and then going back to the store the fabric was still there to be purchased. There was just over 7 yards, so I grabbed it all. </div>
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I think I will be using Sense and Sensibility's Cross over bodice dress for this project. But I also really like the neckline of that example photo. Is it a drawstring waist with a V neck? That might be too dangerously close to drafting something myself. </div>
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I have an event, I have accessories, I even have fabric. Now I just need to sew!</div>
<br />Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4113724219538976474.post-27428991313135286772014-07-16T08:04:00.003-07:002014-07-16T08:04:57.767-07:00Sense & Sensibility Elegant Ladies Closet: (modified) Sari DressFirst of all, let me express my fear of Regency dresses. The first ever costume I made was a Regency dress (Simplicity 4055). Not having any idea of how to read a pattern, or instructions, I was tramazied. I can't fault the pattern (knowing how new to sewing I was) but I was completely scared away from the style. <br />
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For some time I was able to avoid Regency clothing. The, slowly but surely, more events popped calling for that style. As my sewing skills progressed I looked at that first dress and knew I could do better now if I gave myself a second chance.<br />
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My first step back into the era was for a Christmas party a friend was hosting. Knowing all the effort she was putting into her party, I would not dream of appearing in my old green dress of absolute fail. <br />
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I had to find a new pattern to use. Despite being told it's the same thing as the Simplicity pattern, I went with the <a href="http://sensibility.com/blog/patterns/the-elegant-ladys-closet/">Sense & Sensibility Elegant Ladies Closet</a> pattern. I LOVE that I could download a pdf (in true form, I started this project much later than I should have. Waiting for a pattern to ship would have lost me much needed time). S&S is also extremely helpful, and somewhere on her site is a step by step how to with photos. Always a win for me. <br />
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I would like to point out that I had access to two of the same saris for this project. I often see people complete a dress with just one. I'm not sure if they draft a pattern themsevles or what. I found I needed two to get all the detail I have at the bottom of my skirt (otherwise only the front would have had the detail, and I was obsessed with having that border go all the way around). I'll be the first to admit it's completely possible to do with only one sari if one knows what they are doing. I need to follow a pattern, and my pattern (and the pattern on the sari) required more yardage than one sari provided. <br />
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Super wrinkle time! I must do a better job of photos. I promise to return to this post and update with better images. But I need to get off my butt and back to posting. <br />
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TIME: A major fail. I have misplaced my notebook that I was using to keep track of my time. I'm searching high and low for it. <br />
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ALTERATIONS: I wanted the cross over bodice, but I didn't want the opening flap going down the front of the skirt. It was just a personal preference. So I had to modify the back to open so I could get in and out of the costume. I wasn't able to raise my arms very high in the dress, and this might be why Or it might just be that it isn't designed for the arms to have as much movement (I can't say for certain, as I changed the pattern). I also had to shorten the overall length of the dress. I'm about 5'3" and was wearing flats. I would have been tripping everywhere if I hadn't. I also lined the dress. My saris were shockingly see through, and even more shocking... I didn't make a shift. I have one, but it's white, long sleeved, and wasn't long enough to cover all that needed to be (anyone would be able to see it stopping at my knees. Then there would have been this band of semi see through fabric, it would have driven me insane). I also thought the white under the burgundry would change the overall look of the color so I just calmed myself down and lined it in some gold slubby silk from Joann's. Is it historically accurate to line a Regency dress? NO CLUE. <br />
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EASE OF INSTRUCTIONS: The step by step with photos on the site was a major bonus. If a company offers that I rarely even peek at the instructions sent with the pattern. I imagine the instructions are very similar to the online help. <br />
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BONUS: I made a matching turban with left over fabric. Using the tutorial from the Oregon Regency Society, I made "<a href="http://oregonregency.blogspot.com/2010/03/regency-ladys-turban.html">the cap turban</a>". Their tutorial worked wonderfully and really finished off my look. I liked that I could just pop it on my head and not worry about it coming unwound. <br />
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<br />Learning To Costumehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02216356270262649711noreply@blogger.com2